Tapas and Appetizers

Developed in Spanish bars as a thirst-provoking accompaniment to sherry, tapasor finger foodsare more varied and exciting than salted nuts or potato chips. Sarrau, founder of Madrid's Academia de Gastronomos, has chosen 140 recipes from across Spain to illustrate the food's versatility, and while tapas still function as delectable snacks, they adapt to American dining customs with surprising ease. One could have a finger-food party composed of chorizo toast, chicken breast pinchos with foie gras, tuna croquettes and other tapas, or make a full meal of a casserole of broad beans and artichokes and monkfish in almond sauce. Many of the cold salads, such as shredded chicken breast and olives on escarole with onion vinaigrette, would make delicious summer entrees. (June)