cover image Seafood: A Connoisseur's Guide and Cookbook

Seafood: A Connoisseur's Guide and Cookbook

Alan Davidson. Simon & Schuster, $29.95 (0pp) ISBN 978-0-671-67011-5

Davidson, a onetime British diplomat, may be a Pisces, so scientifically yet passionately has he scrutinized denizens of the deep. In previous books ( Mediterranean Seafood ), he was hooked on famously popular fish in particular waters. Now that those fins are regularly imported and exported, he has developed a global perspective, illustrated handsomely by artist-collaborator Knox. Holding a sort of family reunion for international seafood, in short essays the ichthyologist introduces the habitats and habits of major genera and species, with a sensibility wry and erudite. The book's strong suit may be as a reference, but Davidson also offers traditional recipes for everything from tilliliemessakeitetytlalakaaryleetsp as is;checked (Finnish sole rolls in dill) to Mrs. Mary Lincoln's fish chowder. The author has modified the Canadian principal of estimating piscatorial cooking time by a specimen's thickness to the square of its thickness, and has further identified doneness at a thermometer reading of roughly 145 degrees. This will come in handy with books such as his, where overly long cooking times may do in delicate fish. Better Homes and Gardens Book Club Bonus Book. (Nov.)