cover image Sweetness and Light: A Book of Desserts

Sweetness and Light: A Book of Desserts

Kip Wilcox. Random House (NY), $19 (272pp) ISBN 978-0-679-75608-8

Wilcox, a member of the Moosewood Restaurant team, and Cowden, a papercut artist, pool talents and interests in this illustrated book of healthful, flavorful desserts. Chapters (e.g., Pies; Cakes, Cobblers, Crumbles, Crisps and Their Relatives; Fruit and Fruit Sauces) are laced with the authors' recollections of first encounters with a particular dish or other personal memories related to various desserts and sweets. Fat and cholesterol contents are reduced with the use of low-fat milk and canola oil; calorie, fat and cholesterol counts are given per serving. The collection serves as an ample introduction to the last sweet course, with recipes ranging from the very simple (e.g., Classic Apple Pie; Pear Crisp; Marsala Sorbet and Toasted Cashew Cookies) to the more demanding (Sweet Tamales, made with peaches, masa harina and apricot preserves; Apple Strudel with Homemade Dough). Chapters on fruit sauces (Plum Puree; Fresh Orange Sauce) and drinks (Mango Lassi; Sparkling Cherry Lemonade) are included. Although the authors mention freezing fruit for later use, recipes calling for fruit (Cranberry Poached Pears; Rhubarb Ginger Pockets) are generally seasonal, taking advantage of fruit at its best. Recipes and tips for additions, such as Faux Whipped Cream, made with nonfat dry milk, ice water and lemon juice, are welcome additions. Illustrations not seen by PW. (July)