cover image Caviar

Caviar

Susan R. Friedland. Scribner Book Company, $15.95 (152pp) ISBN 978-0-684-18437-1

As Friedland (Ribs explains, caviar, or ""black pearls', ""more than any other food . . . conjures up wealth and status, luxury and celebration; it is full of legend and magic.'' But, according to the author, only the prized Caspian Sea sturgeon eggsbeluga, osetra, sevrugadeserve the rarefied reputation. A thorough introduction highlights the strengths of American domestic processed fish eggs from cod, salmon, whitefish, lumpfish and others, and these plentiful, inexpensive and delicious varieties are frequently recommended in the recipes. The author has amassed welcome, simple alternatives to the typical chopped egg, onion and toast presentation in the form of hors d'oeuvres (caviar torte, sushi), first courses (caviar mousse, smoked salmon biscuits with caviar), soup (vichyssoise, oyster veloute with black caviar), pasta, rice and kasha (vodka-caviar pasta, bow ties with red and black caviar, tomatoes and basil), entrees (buckwheat blinis, braised veal with caviar sauce), egg dishes, salads and sandwiches (scrambled eggs with caviar, potato salad with pressed caviar). (October)