The Food of Portugal

Jean E. Anderson, Author William Morrow & Company $24.95 (0p) ISBN 978-0-688-04363-6
Portugal, as much as Portuguese cooking, is the subject of this book, which is enlivened by veteran food writer (coauthor of The NEW Doubleday Cookbook Anderson's familiarity with the country's people, regions, rivers and markets. A lengthy glossary in the introductory section notwithstanding, the narrative is buoyed by historical notes, reminiscences and tips on the best inns and restaurants in Portugal. When Portuguese is used in the recipes, the English translation is also included, thereby precluding the necessity of making frequent reference to the glossary, a mild annoyance with many ethnic cookbooks. The recipes depend on simple ingredients, often in unusual combinations (""pork and clams may sound like a new low in surf 'n' turf dinners, but it is in fact a Portuguese classic''), subtly seasoned with olive oil, bay, tomatoes, garlic and the spices of the East introduced to Portugal by explorer Vasco da Gama at the turn of the 16th century. Meat, fish and chicken, often marinated, and soups are emphasized. In the interests of health and ingredient availability, some traditional Portuguese dishesmany egg sweets and lampreys, or fat eel, delicacieshave been omitted. Photos not seen by PW. (September 19)
Reviewed on: 05/01/1987
Release date: 05/01/1987
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