cover image What's for Dinner?

What's for Dinner?

Michael Roberts. William Morrow & Company, $22 (333pp) ISBN 978-0-688-08544-5

The seemingly age-old question of what to prepare for one's family, friends, or oneself for dinner is what Roberts ( Fresh from the Freezer ), chef and proprietor of Los Angeles' Trumps restaurant, goes after here. Reflecting his own apparent style (the author ``dislikes fussy food, and who'd rather have something taste fabulous than merely look impressive''), this collection nicely interweaves the familiar and the original, a useful mix for a meal that is ostensibly served 365 days a year, and the only meal, according to Roberts, that has survived our modern tendency to ``catch a bite'' rather than sit down to eat traditionally. Recipes include good ideas like vegetable sausages and chickpea polenta with tomato sauce, as well as the comforting chicken and fresh noodles (made with simply wrought, from-scratch-prepared noodles). Even the section on ``last-minute dinners'' includes such fresh and inventive ideas as soft shell crabs stuffed with smoked salmon and sauteed scallops with root vegetables. Included as well are versions of ethnic classics like Chinese omelettes and noodles in broth, and pork scallopine with broccoli rabe. This is quick food, most of it. (Feb.)