Blood, Bones & Butter: The Inadvertent Education of a Reluctant Chef

Chef and restaurateur Hamilton, chef/owner of the acclaimed New York City restaurant Prune, offers a sensuous and evocative memoir of her rural Pennsylvania childhood and her training as writer and chef. The youngest of five children raised by a glamorous French former ballerina and a theater set designer, Hamilton grew up petted and unsupervised, free to roam with packs of neighborhood children who wore, according to the season, "mud suits or snowsuits." Hamilton's account is studded with precise observations made in felicitous prose that brings her "wild castle" of a home to life, as well as her lost years after her parents' divorce. Unfortunately, Hamilton is a poor reader of her own material. Her voice is monotone and scarcely strains to communicate drama. There's a reserve and coldness that does not melt away, a listlessness at odds with the intelligence and energy of the prose, the warmth of her humor, and her lush descriptions. A Random hardcover. (Mar.)