THE TANTE MARIE'S COOKING SCHOOL COOKBOOK: More than 250 Recipes for the Passionate Home Cook

Operating a full-time cooking school in San Francisco since 1979, Risley brings an authoritative voice to her serious instructive approach. Don't even think of cooking leeks al dente, she declares, due to their fibrous quality. Eschewing the chumminess prevalent in cookbooks today, she resolves to teach the user every home cooking technique necessary. After proceeding through the book, cooks of any stripe can learn hors d'oeuvre from the simple Parmesan Cheese Twists to Caviar in Beggar's Purses, a first course like Whole Artichoke Filled with Roasted Garlic Soufflé and entrees as uncomplicated as Linguine with Roasted Peppers and Sausage or as sophisticated as Magret of Duck in Cassis Sauce. As the title suggests, French is the dominant accent, but international favorites appear throughout, as in Osso Buco with Risotto Milanese, Paella and Chicken Sauté with Preserved Lemons and Olives. The fat police should beware of such dishes as Mushrooms Filled with Garlic Butter, and Mussels with Mashed Potatoes Gratinée, each of which contains three sticks of butter and serves four. Sidebars appear frequently to describe how, for example, to deep fry properly or butterfly a leg of lamb. Desserts run the gamut from the familiar Blueberries in Lemon Mousse to the far more demanding Hazelnut Dacquoise. Directing with a firm but gentle hand, Risley has earned the mantle of culinary tutor. (May)