cover image To Cork or Not to Cork: Tradition, Romance, Science, and the Battle for the Wine Bottle

To Cork or Not to Cork: Tradition, Romance, Science, and the Battle for the Wine Bottle

George M. Taber. Scribner Book Company, $26 (278pp) ISBN 978-0-7432-9934-3

Unexpectedly fascinating, this history of wine corks may sound like a book only an oenophile could love, but Taber's zingy writing and juicy anecdotes make it a genuine page-turner, even for those who prefer wine coolers to wine lists. The first chapter alone is full of intriguing facts: for instance, wine was once sealed with a slick of olive oil, and the practice of tasting wine before pouring it ""actually started as a way of making sure all the oil was gone."" Cork, a structurally unique substance used for sealing bottles since the Roman Empire, replaced olive oil centuries ago, but cork is not a perfect solution to the vexing problem of protecting wine: between 3 and 5 percent is tainted with a noxious chemical compound that can ruin an otherwise perfect bottle. The debate about whether or not to continue using cork has torn through the multibillion dollar wine industry, pitting traditionalists against innovators, cork farmers against scientists: ""Says Brian Croser, one of Australia's leading winemakers, 'It's scary how passionate people can be on this topic. Prejudice and extreme positions have taken over, and science has often gone out the window.'"" If it seems strange to harbor such passion about cork, Taber, a respected wine journalist, will do much to change your mind.