Grilling: Where There's Smoke There's Flavor

It takes a lot of guts for a French chef from London to broach one of America's most prideful pastimes, but Mssr. Treuille (Ultimate Bread; Hors D'Oeuvres) pulls off his grilling lesson with humble, no-nonsense panache. His approach is full of common sense, such as a description of the obviously useful but rarely performed technique of squeezing cooked meat between ones fingers to test for doneness. Still, a subtlety or two is lost. There is no discussion of the benefits of charcoal versus gas grilling, for example; recipes are offered simply in terms of indoor or outdoor preparation. Treuille's tastes are firmly New World and Nouveaux, which is to say that the dishes span across Asian, Mexican, European, Middle Eastern and American cuisines and take their strength from accompanying marinades, glazes or flavored butters. With spring in the wings, what better harbinger than a hamburger, prepared here with a big slab of Blue Cheese Butter? Or, how about Cinnamon Quail with Pomegranate Glaze, Red Snapper Tacos with Chili Lime Mayo or Skewered Cumin Lamb with Garlic Yoghurt Sauce? There are cooling side salads such as Parsley, Mint and Bulgar Salad with Lemon, and fruit dessert options such as Char Grilled Nectarines. Instructions are succinct and blissfully free of anecdote. Tips and techniques are plentiful, and there are clear directions on such tasks as cleaning squid and making your own sausage. Ian O'Leary's wonderful color photos include not only the expected closeups of sizzling shiskabobs but also helpful visual indices of cooking tools and essential seasonings. (May)