Fresco: Modern Tuscan Cooking for All Seasons

Fresco is the name of a popular Manhattan restaurant, whose homey Italian fare is reflected in this collection of about 100 recipes. The authors are the owner and the chef, respectively, and are not related; although for the proprietor, ownership is a family affair, extending even to her daughter, who is an anchor for Fox 5 TV News. The recipes are simple and straightforward and use fresh, seasonal ingredients, often adapting traditional Italian fare to the availability of ingredients in America (e.g., Crabmeat and Asparagus Lasagne; Corn Chowder; and Cranberry Apple Tart with Hazelnut Crust). Recipes are organized by season, which can result in quirky placement for dishes that can be prepared at several times during the year (e.g., Savory Greens with Orange Vinaigrette; Risotto with Shrimp, Arugula and Lemon; Sausage and Leek Tart with Fennel Crust). Selections of such specialty items as antipasti and pizzas are appended to the back of the seasonal sections, an arrangement that may make such recipes hard to find. Unlike many restaurant cookbooks, this one with its hearty, uncomplicated recipes seems well suited for family gatherings. Abundant pasta recipes (Pappardelle with Veal Ragu and Pumpkin; Penne Gratin) join the likes of Risotto with Garlic Sausage, Tomatoes and Arugula, and Panettone Bread Pudding. With its 40 color photos, this cookbook is likely to tempt home cooks who can't get out to sample Scotto fare at the restaurant. (Apr.)