cover image Cooking with the 60-Minute Gourmet: 300 Rediscovered Recipes from Pierre Franey's Classic New York Times Column

Cooking with the 60-Minute Gourmet: 300 Rediscovered Recipes from Pierre Franey's Classic New York Times Column

Pierre Franey. Crown Publishers, $30 (352pp) ISBN 978-0-8129-3094-8

In this sensible, sophisticated cookbook, 60 minutes is really 60 minutes--and often less. Franey, who died in 1996, is a cook's cook. As Jacques P pin writes: ""Although he was able to organize and run a large kitchen, his heart was at the stove."" Franey's French heritage is evident in this collection of rediscovered recipes--the poultry, meat and seafood sections are the book's strongest points--yet international influences (Bitochki with Stroganoff Sauce; Russian chicken burgers) abound. Franey's recipes appeal to American tastes with numerous easy, low-fat turkey, fish and chicken breast recipes (Baked Chicken Breasts with Ricotta-and-Herb Stuffing; Indonesian-Style Chicken Breast). Genial sidebars and asides demystify Franey's secrets, such as which fish are best for soups and how to cook duck (Roasted Duck with Figs) as easily as chicken. The little touches are what count: cayenne pepper in the Poached Halibut Steaks with Lemon Sauce gives the dish warmth. Despite a perfunctory dessert section (too many recipes like Prunes in Beaujolais) and a few superfluities (instructions for preparing a box of wild rice), this is a cookbook that, like Franey's other titles (Cuisine Rapide, etc.), will stand the test of time. Author tour. (Aug.)