Vegetables the French Way

Thirty-nine vegetables from artichokes to zucchini (with a few ingredients loosely grouped as ``herbs'') are showcased in a bland compendium. The author of Greek Vegetarian Cookery outlines French recipes without displaying much imagination--his dishes are laden with cream, butter and cheese; he supplies redundant recipes for omelettes and gratins; the presentations themselves are often familiar (onion soup, cauliflower with cheese sauce, ratatouille). Instructions are sketchy: the author calls for vegetable stock, but supplies no recipes for it; for wine, but does not specify even red or white; for parcooked ingredients, but does not explain this term. His treatment of unusual foods is welcome, especially his intriguing Swiss chard and apple pie, parsnip croquettes and pickled fennel salad. However, suggestions for menus incorporating his offerings are lacking; neither the vegetarian nor the adventuring cook will find much help here in planning exciting, healthful new meals. (Mar.)