Patsy’s Italian Family Cookbook

Founded in 1944, Patsy’s is one of New York City’s most famous restaurants. The food was so good that Frank Sinatra used to order meals and have them flown to his performances throughout the country. Sal Scognamillo, grandson of the titular Patsy, takes readers into the kitchen once again to share some of the restaurant’s iconic dishes, as well as some of his family favorites. (A decade ago, Scognamillo wrote Patsy’s Cookbook, also based on the restaurant.) Diners and readers alike will be struck by the accessibility of classic dishes such as pasta fagioli, osso buco, and spaghetti and veal meatballs (ground veal is the key, Scognamillo asserts) that have had regulars raving for years, but it’s the family recipes that are the real jewels here. Scognamillo’s grandmother’s Italian wedding soup, his cousin Connie’s potato pie with prosciutto and sopressata, and Scognamillo’s Italian sausage and bacon stuffing, served every year at Thanksgiving, give warmth and personality to the book. Another highlight is Scognamillo’s seafood-based menu for the Feast of the Seven Fishes, an Italian tradition on Christmas Eve. The attention to detail for potato croquettes or St. Joseph’s bread may come across as rather wordy, but Scognamillo patiently guides readers through every step of preparation, distinguishing this from many Italian cookbooks already on the market. Even if readers have never set foot in Patsy’s, they’ll feel as if they’ve spent an afternoon in the kitchen with an old friend. (Mar.)