cover image The Best Cook in the World: Tales from My Momma’s Table

The Best Cook in the World: Tales from My Momma’s Table

Rick Bragg. Knopf, $28.95 (528p) ISBN 978-1-4000-4041-4

For Southerners, notes Bragg (All Over but the Shoutin’), every recipe is a story, not simply a list of ingredients, and he cannily shares the stories of the meals of his mother’s Alabama upbringing. For the book, Bragg asked his mother to share the secrets of her cooking, only to realize that she follows no rules or recipes: “She cooks in dabs, and smidgens, and tads, and a measurement she mysteriously refers to as ‘you know, hon, just some.’ ” Bragg recalls his grandmother Ava’s first real feast—cornbread, carrot and red cabbage slaw, creamed onions, boiled red potatoes and butter, and pinto beans and ham bone—and the impression it made on his mother. Bragg intersperses his memoir with recipes, including for pinto beans and ham bone (a main course, not a side), collard greens (which are sweeter after the first frost), pan-roasted pig’s feet, cracklin’ corn bread, baked possum, and pecan pie. In a disturbing though hilarious story, his father, speeding down a country road so he can make it home in time for supper, hits a body and leaves it there (it turns out that the body was that of a dog that miraculously survived and made its way home). Bragg’s entertaining memoir is a testament that cooking and food still bind culture together. Agent: Amanda Urban, ICM. (Apr.)