Essential

Michelin-starred London chef Dabbous (Dabbous: The Cookbook) puts simplicity front and center while arming readers with the know-how to cook with “restaurant-quality finesse” in his delectable latest. As he writes, these recipes are “stripped back to flavour combinations that work together without superfluous fuss, and on the rare occasion that one is slightly more involved, it is always worth the effort.” To that end, most ingredients he utilizes—olive oil, grains, fresh produce—are widely available, instructions are pared down to the basics, and many plates, such as his spongecakes, reheat “brilliantly in the microwave.” Salmon is treated to a one-hour cure, requiring very little labor in the kitchen, and a simple fig cake is imbued with extra flavor simply by lining the pan with fresh fig leaves. When his dishes are composed of recipes-within-recipes—such as his grilled runner beans with nectarines, mint, and ricotta—the chef breaks each one down into easy-to-follow bullet points. And when he calls for more obscure items such as argan oil (whose recent popularity “has also given a welcome boost to the Moroccan economy”), he’s careful to explain their provenance, characteristics, and uses. He also shares key elements of filleting and cooking several kinds of fish, including turbot, plaice, and skate. This makes elevating what’s brought to the home table a breeze. (Nov.)