Jerusalem Food: Bold Flavors from the Middle East and Beyond

Originally published in Sweden as Shakshuka, this uneven collection is not especially Jerusalem-centric. Instead, it offers a handy roundup of quintessential Mediterranean and Middle Eastern dishes with a few eccentricities thrown in. Kersh, who introduced falafel to Stockholm with his restaurant Falafelbaren, was raised in Sweden and his paternal grandparents were Palestinian. He provides insight into the politics of food, including the Israeli-Palestinian debate over the origins of hummus, and shares recipes for classic hummus, as well as for a chunkier version called msbaha. A chapter entitled “Meat and Fish” contains mainly chicken entrees and only two fish options, but there is a comforting lamb shawarma, as well as pan-fried lamb kebabs. As an alternative to a traditional falafel, Kersh serves up a Swedish version with yellow peas replacing chickpeas and wild garlic in lieu of coriander. The port city of Akko, Israel, where Kersh spent time in his youth, is the source of his Turkish salad, salata turki, as well as sayadieh—seabass and rice with a pinch of saffron. While some sections may leave home cooks wanting more dishes, the recipes themselves are certainly enticing. (Oct.)