Something Old, Something New: Classic Recipes Reinvented

Tamar Adler, illus. by Mindy Dubin. Scribner, $26 (288p) ISBN 978-1-4767-9961-2
Adler (An Everlasting Meal) reimagines emblematic continental fare and famous chef-inspired dishes of a bygone era, breathing new life into more than 100 culinary mainstays—shrimp scampi, duck à l’orange, Oysters Rockefeller, and Crab Louis, to name just a few. Deviled eggs lose the pickled relish and are elevated with a punch of parmesan cheese, white wine vinegar, and anchovies; watercress soup becomes a passionate “fairy-green cream” by adding butter, heavy cream, with croutons, or poached shrimp on top; Waldorf salad, the 1950s “fixture at nice ladies’ luncheons,” replaces mayonnaise with creamy soft-boiled eggs, olive oil, and lemon juice; soufflés also get a modern facelift (Adler adds sliced spring garlic to the bechamel). There are also suggested seasonal menus with wine pairings. Mindy Dubin’s vivid watercolors entice, while Adler’s beautiful, reflective prose provides history and insight into each dish. Adler shows how nostalgic, old school dishes can taste current when remade with a modern sensibility. (Apr.)
Reviewed on: 03/05/2018
Release date: 04/03/2018
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