Crushed: How a Changing Climate Is Altering the Way We Drink

Travel writer Freedman shares in his rich debut stories of growers and producers across the world to illustrate the impact climate change is having on the wine industry. The tour kicks off in Sonoma in 2017: Freedman speaks with a vineyard owner, one of many “wine pioneers... pushing to further and further climatic extremes” as smoke from nearby wildfires damages his crop. In France, meanwhile, growers are switching to grapes that develop later in the season and are “therefore more protected from early-spring frost and hail,” and while a “warming climate is challenging Champagne... it is, on the whole, benefiting southern England,” where rising temperatures make for a booming nascent bubbly business. In Argentina, a family is forced to make changes in their irrigation practices, switching from flood to drip, and in Israel, growers are up against “exhaust[ed] soil.” Freedman’s knowledge of the industry is encyclopedic, his predictions are fascinating (growers are hoping Scandinavia may be “the next big thing in the world of wine”), and his stories hit home as they reveal producers’ ingenuity and tenacity “to not just survive in this brave new world but to thrive.” For oenophiles and anyone interested in ways climate change is affecting what’s on the table, this is a must-read. (Oct.)