cover image Small Plates: Appetizers as Meals

Small Plates: Appetizers as Meals

Marguerite Marceau Henderson. Gibbs Smith Publishers, $18.95 (192pp) ISBN 978-1-58685-781-3

As the small plate fad migrates from restaurants to kitchen tables, this chic cookbook does its best to convince readers that grazing on a half dozen snacks is a novel and exciting way to eat. Perhaps it is. But few of the recipes in this book are necessarily small plates; throw another few Coffee and Spice Lamb Kebobs on the grill and you've got a hearty dinner. Likewise, the Farfalle with Creamy Peas and Prosciutto is rich and delicious, but nothing about it (except the serving size) separates it from a traditional main course. The cookbook also includes cocktail tidbits like Smoked Salmon and Asparagus Bundles, which are crispy and would work as an appetizer as well as a small plate. But beyond its central gimmick, this cookbook does offer lovely, easy-to-prepare recipes, and it's hard to find fault with such an eclectic and appealing collection. A Fennel, Orange and Pecan Salad balances the licorice taste of fennel with the tanginess of blue cheese. Braised Beef Short Ribs with Wide Egg Noodles is pure comfort food-warming and substantial. And Feta and Herb Stuffed Shrimp is so zesty it almost demands a big plate.