Saka Saka: Adventures in African Cooking, South of the Sahara

Chef Cocagne celebrates “the tastes of Sub-Saharan Africa” in this vibrant if slightly scattered debut. In an appealing introduction, she focuses on the region’s history, explaining that there is no unifying cuisine, but rather diverse ways of eating spread across 54 nations. Puzzlingly, Cocagne then lists basics comprising the “African diet,” including cassava leaf stew and oily rice. Though sometimes oddly presented (national origins of the dishes appear in the table of contents, but not in the actual recipes), the information is fascinating. Cocagne covers everything from eating with one’s hands to the absence of frozen food in Africa. Most recipes offer helpful substitutions, such as swapping grouper for the tuna in tuna garba, “the quick and inexpensive dish of choice of young people in Abidjan.” The range of cuisines is vast: Ravioli are filled with smoked mackerel and amaranth leaves; a chapter on street food includes fried dumplings and grilled sea bream; and desserts encompass crème brûlée with baobab powder, and mbouraké made by pounding stale bread, sugar, and evaporated milk. Meanwhile, interviews with Sub-Saharan African personalities—such as radio host Soro Solo and designer Aïssé N’Diaye—fold in enlivening cultural tidbits. The generous spirit goes a long way to compensate for the book’s flaws, making it an important entry in the growing number of books about African cuisines. (Apr.)