cover image Thirsty Dragon: China’s Lust for Bordeaux and the Threat to the World’s Best Wines

Thirsty Dragon: China’s Lust for Bordeaux and the Threat to the World’s Best Wines

Suzanne Mustacich. Holt, $30 (352p) ISBN 978-1-62779-087-1

Wine Spectator contributing editor Mustacich meticulously charts the evolution of the Chinese wine market and its relationship with one of France’s most famous regions, focusing on key players as well as the logistics of developing what would become an enormous market. As the market for Bordeaux wines began to collapse in the late 2000’s, vintners and château owners found unlikely saviors in China, where high-end wines were originally bought as investments and soon became symbols of wealth and taste. The Chinese palate eventually caught up with investors, as citizens and officials became more familiar with labels and varietals and began seeking out specific bottles, most of which were from Bordeaux. Fraudulent wines and even fake châteaux soon followed in an attempt to cash in on Bordeaux’s sudden popularity. Though some purveyors were fined and punished, others operated with impunity due to kickbacks to high-ranking officials, some of whom suffered spectacular falls from grace. This makes for a dramatic arc, and Mustacich does an admirable job of explaining the cultural quirks and byzantine classifications that play a part in the story, even if the book’s closing chapter feels a little rushed and unfinished. This is an interesting assessment of one of the wine industry’s largest markets. [em](Dec.) [/em]