cover image The Robert Rose Book of Classic Pasta

The Robert Rose Book of Classic Pasta

Robert Rose. Robert Rose, $17.95 (192pp) ISBN 978-1-896503-03-5

What this book lacks in rigor, it makes up for in its enthusiasm for combining flavors. Jones, a food consultant, and Wong (Heartsmart Chinese Cooking) provide an introductory chapter that includes a chart of various noodle types, as well as two more prefatory chapters on Asian ingredients and basic preparations like stock, but they quickly move into fusion cuisine and never look back. Some dishes owe more to Italy than to Asia: Silver Needles with Pancetta and Shrimp; Thin Egg Noodles with Shredded Ham in a Sweet Pea and Garlic Cream; Oven-Roasted Chow Mein with Mixed Herbs, Olive Oil and Garlic. Both Smoked Salmon and Cream Cheese on a Crispy Noodle Pancake and Tortillas Stuffed with Rice Noodles, Shredded Pork and a Spicy Bean Dressing exemplify culinary diversity. More traditional dishes include Chopped Chicken in Lettuce Wrap with Crispy Glass Noodles; Cold Soba Noodle Salad with Soya and Mustard Dressing; Soy-Braised Tofu, Cabbage and Ginger with Cellophane Noodles. Recipes are clear and easy to follow, but header material is dull and generic, and the short chapter on desserts (Pan-Fried Blueberry and Cream Cheese Gyoza with a Lemon-Ginger Sauce; Hazelnut Yam Wonton with Maple Syrup) seems simply misguided. (Nov.)