cover image Liquid Jade: The Story of Tea from East to West

Liquid Jade: The Story of Tea from East to West

Beatrice Hohenegger. St. Martin's Press, $25.95 (320pp) ISBN 978-0-312-33328-7

In this lively, exhaustive survey of the history and politics of tea, Hohenegger travels from ancient Asia to 15th century Europe to present day concerns about fair trade practices and organic farming. Focusing mainly on the drink's most enthusiastic supporters, the Chinese and the British, Hohenegger uses tea to tell no less than the ""the story of the traumatic encounter and clash of cultures between East and West."" Trailing tea over continents and centuries as it grows in popularity and becomes a power unto itself-in the form of the East India Tea Company-Hohenegger covers an interesting mix of topics, including Zen Buddhism, the Opium Wars, the first and only ""tea spy,"" and, of course, the rise and fall of the British Empire, each of which were integral in the beverage's journey from storied ""elixir of immortality"" to simple commodity. The book's third part, a series of brief discussions on topics more typically the purview of purists, such as water quality, the role of the tea tester and the ongoing debate between the opposing MIF (Milk In First) and TIF (Tea In First) camps, is surprisingly engaging. Told with authority and affection, this narrative history is a stimulating treat.