Egg: A Culinary Exploration of the World’s Most Versatile Ingredient

Ruhlman (Ruhlman’s Twenty; Charcuterie) pays homage to the amazing egg in this appetizing exploration of the greatest of all foods. He starts with the basics, from hard-cooked to gently fried to poached, and shows how to perfectly prepare each. Curried egg salad and poached duck egg on duck confit hash are just a taste of what eggs can do. Omelets with creamy morel mushrooms, bacon and sausage breakfast strata, and frittatas made with potatoes, onions, and cheese elevate the egg even higher. Yet it can switch from star role to helper—in a binder, egg wash, or as an enricher. Breads such as brioche and challah and most cakes rely on eggs as leaveners. Ruhlman’s regard for this simple ingredient is evident as he describes the multiple functions it serves and then offers up recipes for a wide array of appetizing dishes. Scrumptious desserts including chocolate mocha cake and crunchy French meringues and creamy sauces such as lemon-shallot mayonnaise and blender hollandaise confirm his assertion. Home cooks and professionals will embrace this useful resource, which includes a pull-out flow chart measuring over four feet long. (Apr.)