Skirts: Fashioning Modern Femininity in the Twentieth Century

Journalist Chrisman-Campbell (The Way We Wed) takes an entertaining and insightful look at the evolution of the skirt across the 20th century. Spotlighting 10 groundbreaking styles and their various iterations, she examines each design through the lenses of gender, race, class, and fashion. Highlights include the risqué, body-skimming pleats of designer Mariano Fortuny’s 1909 Delphos gown, which was inspired by a Hellenistic bronze sculpture, and the empowering and form-fitting elasticized bands of Azzedine Alaïa’s 1989 “mummy” dress. Chrisman-Campbell also takes note of controversies surrounding tennis star Suzanne Lenglen’s shedding of the sport’s long skirt and petticoats for the mobility of a calf-length skirt in 1919, Coco Chanel’s liberation of women’s formalwear with her “little black dress” in 1920, and Diane von Furstenburg’s capturing of the feminist and sexual revolutions with the wrap dress she created at her dining table in 1973. Chrisman-Campbell also sketches the history of men in skirts from the late Middle Ages, when bared legs symbolized strength and power, to Harry Styles’s pairing of a black tuxedo jacket and gray evening gown for a 2020 Vogue cover: “There is no more menswear or womenswear, it implied; there is only fashion.” Exquisitely detailed and evocatively written, this stylish history casts an underappreciated garment in a rewarding new light. Illus. (Sept.)