cover image State Bird Provisions: A Cookbook

State Bird Provisions: A Cookbook

Stuart Brioza and Nicole Krasinski, with J.J. Goode. Ten Speed, $40 (368p) ISBN 978-1-6077-4844-1

Brioza and Krasinski, chef-owners of the award-winning San Francisco restaurant State Bird Provisions, along with food writer Goode, share the recipes behind the restaurant’s groundbreaking dishes in this superb collection. Voted Best New Restaurant in the country by Bon Appétit, the restaurant is best known for its fried quail, the state bird of California, served with lemon and rosemary onions, and the recipe for that dish is among a wide array included here that will intrigue and delight. The chefs dedicate an entire chapter to exceptional pancakes flavored with the likes of ginger and scallion and sweet corn and cheese. Even humble toast is elevated to new levels when topped with tomato and pickled anchovies, asparagus with black trumpet aioli, or marinated chanterelle mushrooms with chanterelle aioli. Chips and dips also reach new heights when served with fresh-cured trout roe and horseradish crème fraîche. Duck liver mousse with warm duck-fat financiers (small almond cakes) combine sweet and savory, while littleneck clam, pork belly, and kimchi stew melds briny with the smooth, rich umami of a low, slow braise. The chefs also offer equally inventive and excellent meats, seafood, vegetables, and desserts, such as ice cream sandwiches made with a lemon verbena sabayon. Beautifully written and photographed, this collection will inspire generations of diners and chefs to come. (Oct.)