Foot Trodden: Portugal and the Wines That Time Forgot

Wine writers Opaz and Woolf (Amber Revolution) let “the real Portugal and its authentic wines speak loud and clear” in this delightful grape-filled tour of the country. Stumped by why “the wine-loving world ha[s] so little appreciation of Portuguese wines,” the authors seek out answers by focusing on the country’s growers and producers, investigating how their livelihoods have been shaped by family, terroir, politics, regulations, and even ennui, born from the “Portuguese penchant for melancholy and longing.” Chapters are organized by region, starting with Vinho Verde in the rainy north, passing through Dão—where vineyards are separated by mountains and granite outcrops—and down into the southern island of Madeira, which produces a scant three to four million litres of its namesake wine annually, much of which is destined to be used for cooking rather than sipping. Along the way are profiles of local artisans, lessons from the regime of António Salazar, and a deep dive into the ancient art of talha winemaking, where grapes are crushed by foot, then fermented in large clay vessels that are eventually sealed over with a paste made of resin, olive oil, and beeswax. For those curious about the wider world of wine, this sweeping history will bear fruit. (Oct.)