Nothing Matters but Delicious: A Radically Honest Cookbook

New York City restaurateur Baxtrom’s handsome debut cookbook doubles as a heartfelt memoir. The author recounts his humble childhood in Chicago, successful culinary career, and journey to recovery from alcoholism, sharing that “nothing matters” serves as his antiperfectionist mantra. The recipes display a wide range of influences, from the U.S. Midwest (hamburger helper) to Southeast Asia (Thai salad with summer squash). Fans of the author’s former Prospect Heights restaurant, Olmsted, will find many favorite dishes from the menu, including carrot crepes, heirloom tomato schnitzel, and a theatrical delicata squash “vase” holding a bouquet of kale, pear, and prosciutto. Step-by-step photos accompany several of the more involved recipes and instructions are largely unpretentious; brining, for instance, is described as “just putting something in a liquid for a while.” Things get a bit more intimidating when home cooks are tasked with burning wood chips for the smoked duck pastrami, but Baxtrom’s dry humor reassures (“Yeah, you’re gonna start a fire. But it’s a controlled one. So... no big deal?”). Autobiography is woven throughout: the introduction to Boy Scout Beef Stew recalls Baxtrom’s childhood, pear chutney is a nod to his mentor Floyd Cardoz, and an onion dip “goop” comes from his mother. Refreshing mocktails and humorous desserts (the “sad cookie for one” is a highlight) round things out. This is an appealing invitation to get creative in the kitchen. (May)