cover image Ottolenghi Test Kitchen: Shelf Love: Recipes to Unlock the Secrets of Your Pantry, Fridge, and Freezer: A Cookbook

Ottolenghi Test Kitchen: Shelf Love: Recipes to Unlock the Secrets of Your Pantry, Fridge, and Freezer: A Cookbook

Noor Murad and Yotam Ottolenghi. Clarkson Potter, $32 trade paper (256p) ISBN 978-0-593-23436-5

In this superb collection, the folks at the Ottolenghi Test Kitchen (OTK) offer an innovative array of adaptable recipes “that say without saying, ‘I’ll show you the rules, but here’s how to break them.’ ” When the Covid-19 pandemic struck, the OTK team was forced to get creative with the ingredients they had on hand. Guided by the ethos that “everything works unless proven otherwise,” this “handbook” teaches home cooks how to make use of the ingredients they’ve got lying around, from capitalizing on the overlooked produce in their veg box (where “a few flimsy-looking eggplants” can yield delicious “burnt eggplant”) to utilizing freezer staples such as frozen fruits and seafood. The result leaves much to savor, thanks to notable dishes including chaat masala chickpea and polenta fries—which maximizes on the chickpea’s versatility, even using the water it’s soaked in to make a vegan mayo—and yellow split pea puree with buttered onions and caper sauce. Common fridge finds beget kale pesto strata with gruyere and mustard, and “magical chicken” and parmesan soup, while appetizing freezer creations include curried cauliflower cheese filo pie and buckwheat-battered fish with toum and pickled chiles. Chock-full of tasty ideas, this lets readers reap the rewards of being resourceful. (Nov.)