cover image Food & Beer

Food & Beer

Daniel Burns and Jeppe Jarnit-Bjergsø. Phaidon, $49.95 (256p) ISBN 978-0-7148-7105-9

This book’s simple title is not due to lack of imagination; rather, it reflects that each of the authors has his own area of expertise, and, more importantly, suggests that within the realm of fine dining there exists an alternative to the classic combination of food and wine. Burns is the owner and chef of Luksus, a 16-seat New Nordic eatery in Brooklyn that boasts a Michelin star, partially due to its adjoining beer bar, Tørst, which is overseen by brewmaster Jarnit-Bjergsø. Their first cookbook is a densely written treatise on the life of restaurateurs, a biography of flavors, and a collection of minimalist, gourmet recipes and the beers that complement them. The first half of the book explores 10 different flavors that food and beer often share: bitter, sweet, smoky, etc. Each author takes a page to explain his interpretation of that flavor and how he employs it in his craft. Burns, for instance, thinks of sourness as “the sustain pedal that carries and elongates the notes of other flavors.” Then they provide recipes for pairings that reflect the shared flavor. For earthy flavors, they recommend their beet-flavored beer alongside licorice-cured trout on rye rugbrød. Part two of the book is a greatest-hits collection of pairings culled from the ever-changing Luksus menu. Also included is a sampling of broths, which the authors call “soup in its purest form.” (May)