Tawâw: Progressive Indigenous Cuisine

Cree author Chartrand, executive chef for the River Cree Resort and Casino in Enoch, Alberta, weaves indigenous cuisine with Asian and European riffs in this unique collection of 75 recipes. His deep knowledge of indigenous culture is on display, evidenced by such dishes as salmon pemmican (“the original survival food,” in which ground salmon is cured, dehydrated, ground, and pressed into patties). Other recipes include light, briny Kusshi oysters with grilled onion cream, and braised venison shanks with mossberry black garlic glaze and herbed wheat berries. A number of the dishes are more complex: leek-ash-coated Artic char with black mushrooms and squash purée, as well as Chartrand’s popular War Paint, in which wheat berries and quail eggs cooked in duck fat are placed on top of a handprint made of red pepper reduction. Throughout, Chartrand discusses local ingredients, such as Saskatoon berries and soapberries; various aspects of indigenous culture such as the pow wow; and other local chefs and their contributions. Many of the dishes are beyond the skills of home cooks, but those interested in learning more about the possibilities of indigenous cuisine are sure to find this illuminating and inspiring. (Oct.)