The Vegetarian Silver Spoon: Classic & Contemporary Italian Recipes

As the introduction to this wide-ranging if shaggy compendium notes, “Italian cuisine has a rich tradition of vegetable dishes.” The editors consciously aim far beyond the Italian canon, however, and include everything from a hearty hemp-flour loaf to a bok choy and tofu stir-fry. The result is a serviceable collection with sparks of genius (a cold bread soup brilliantly colored with beets, and fried yeast-risen turnovers filled with onions, capers, and olives) and the occasional dish with a 1970s “health food” feel, like a basmati rice pilaf with wheat germ and bean sprouts. Each chapter (dedicated to snacks, salads, savory tarts and pastries, etc.) begins with a chatty introduction and a smattering of ideas, such as including a crunchy element in salads, and a list of ingredients to stock. A chapter on pasta, dumplings, and pancakes is predictably a standout with such selections as kamut-flour gnocchi with a puree of fresh fava beans, and chestnut-flour lasagna with squash and kale. Gluten-free, vegan, and dairy-free recipes are marked, and the authors include variations on a number of classic dishes (a vegan alternative to the orange cake, for instance, uses almond milk). This is a solid offering, but one that feels like it is in search of a theme. (Apr.)