cover image Dolci!: American Baking with an Italian Accent

Dolci!: American Baking with an Italian Accent

Renato Poliafito, with Casey Elsass. Knopf, $38 (320p) ISBN 978-0-593-53718-3

James Beard nominee Poliafito (Baked) draws from “that part of me that lives in the in-between,” where Italian, Italian American, and American food cultures intersect, in this heartfelt collection. The roughly 100 sweet and savory recipes are sorted into breakfast bakes; cookies, bars, and biscotti; pies, tarts, and crostatas; breads and snacks; cocktails; pastries; cakes; frozen treats; granitas and puddings; and foundational recipes like pasta frolla. Among the standouts are a tri-color almond-enriched spumoni loaf and a dazzling chestnut puree–domed monte bianco. Less successful are the strained attempts to Italianize American classics, including honey-ricotta black and white cookies and tiramisu-inspired Rice Krispie treats. Still, there’s much to like in this gorgeously photographed work, including an orange zest-spiked chocolate-filled brioche, a decadent pistachio lemon cake, and enticing savory bakes such as caponata bombas. Poliafito promotes measuring by weight, but also writes his recipes in volumes for those without kitchen scales. This beautifully written paeon to the author’s hyphenated background will please home bakers who are up for a challenge. (June)